Grass Lawn Guide
Lawn Watering
The following is a general watering guide. Depending on weather, soil, elevation, type of grass, and fertilization conditions exact watering can greatly differ from one yard to the next
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First week- water 3 – 4 times a day everyday for 3 – 8 minutes
between the hours of 6:00am and 4:30pm.
Second week- 2 times a day everyday for 10 -15 minutes
between the hours of 6:00am and 1:00pm.
Third week- once a day everyday for 20-30 minutes,
between the hours of 5:00am and 8:00am.
Fourth week- once every other day for approximately 30 minutes between the hours of 5:00am and 8:00am.
Continue watering less frequently until stress shows and then back up one day until there are no signs of stress, see tips for stress signs.
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Established lawns – Water for approximately 30 – 60 minutes or more.
Above 90° 2 to 3 times a week.
Below 90° water every 3 to 10 days.
Lawn Watering
Mowing
When mowing your lawn, to give it that golf course look use a reel mower instead of a rotary.
The first time you mow your lawn it should be done just before the first 2 weeks of installation are up.
Try keeping your mower blades sharp and mow no more than the top 3rd of your grass height.
Tips
When watering seed, keep the seed damp until germination and
avoid causing the water to pool.
Once your lawn is established (rooted for about 30 days)
water deeply and less frequently instead of lightly and more frequently.
If a bluish tint occurs or an indention remains from footprints
the lawn is stressed from under watering and should be watered more often.
If soil is extremely soft, mushy, or contains dichondra, moss, mushrooms, or smells musty
it is being watered too often.
When fertilizing your established lawn, use Richards “Super Lawn Food Plus Iron” to keep it green.
Use Richards “Organic Worm” to unlock hard soil deposits and break down animal damage to your lawn;
it will also speed up seed germination.
Over Seeding
WARNING: If you do not over seed be sure to deep water at least once a month to prevent damage.
Unfortunately, all Bermuda type lawns are considered summer grasses, which are dormant in the winter.
Generally turning brown or resembling dead grass.
To avoid this you can either dye the grass or over seed.
When over seeding you are given different choices of grass to choose from.
if you are over seeding a Sod/Tif a.k.a. Hybrid Bermuda you must use either Perennial Rye or Poa Trivialis.
You cannot use Annual Rye, it tends to fight the Hybrid Bermuda and will cause more problems in the long run.
Over seeding should be done around October 15th – 18th or when nighttime temperature is below 85 degrees.
If you seed before that time you run the risk of high temperatures burning up your grass before it has a chance to start
Seeding Instructions
First – Scalp your current lawn.
Second – Spread your seed on top of scalped lawn or bare ground.
Third – Spread Richard’s Lawn Starter Fertilizer on top of your seed.
Fourth – Lightly spread a thin layer of top cover (Mulch or Manure).
Use Manure and Richard’s Organic Worm if it’s really cold out.
Seed Coverage
Annual Rye= 15 pounds per thousand square feet
Bermuda = 3 – 5 pounds per thousand square feet
Fescue = 15 pounds per thousand square feet
Perennial Rye = 15 pounds per thousand square feet
Poa Trivialis = 3 – 5 pounds per thousand square feet
Artificial Grass Lawn
The following is a general watering guide. Depending on weather, soil, elevation, type of grass, and fertilization conditions exact watering can greatly differ from one yard to the next
Artificial Grass installed by Richard’s Garden Center.
Seed Coverage
No mowing
No cuttinging
No trimminging
No over seeding
No watering
No weeding
No fertilizing
Sun or shade, not a problem.
Virtually maintenance free.
Richard’s Garden Center is a licensed landscape contractor
We install, over seed, maintain, fertilize, and update landscapes for commercial and home owners all over the valley
If you need help, or just don’t have time or the expertise
Give us a call or email to set up an appointment
623-434-6922
help@rgcaz.com